A Peaceful Adolescence

Why does a teenager's skin change so much during puberty?

Around ages 11–14, androgens come into play. These hormones stimulate the sebaceous glands in the face, which begin to produce far more sebum than a child’s skin has ever experienced before. The result: the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) becomes shiny, pores enlarge, and the first blemishes appear.

Acne affects the vast majority of teenagers to varying degrees. It is a condition known as occlusive dermatitis: excess sebum production clogs the pores, leading to pimples, blackheads, and inflammation. As Dr. Jérômy Lupu, a dermatologist at the Gustave Roussy Institute (Villejuif), points out, “you can’t use just any type of soap on sensitive or acne-prone skin.” The skin has a naturally acidic pH of around 5.5, and most conventional cleansers found in supermarkets have a much higher pH, making them unsuitable.

Understanding this mechanism is the first step toward avoiding the most common mistake: stripping oily skin in the belief that you’re doing the right thing. Washing too aggressively disrupts the skin’s barrier, causing the production of the lipid film to go into overdrive. It’s a vicious cycle, in short.

Oily skin or dehydrated skin: how to tell the difference in teenagers

It’s the classic trap. Your teenager’s face is shiny, so you assume they have “oily skin.” However, skin can be oily on the surface yet dehydrated deep down. The difference? Oily skin produces too much sebum. Dehydrated skin lacks moisture, not oil.

Here’s a simple tip: if your skin feels tight after washing despite the shine, it’s probably dehydrated. Oily skin, on the other hand, feels comfortable after washing but becomes shiny again within an hour. In both cases, moisturizing is essential. Skipping moisturizer in your routine to “dry out pimples” is counterproductive: the skin compensates by producing even more sebum.

The right approach? A lightweight, non-comedogenic cream that regulates oil production without clogging the pores. The goal is to restore balance, not to strip the skin.

What natural ingredients should you choose for a teenager's skin?

Given the overwhelming array of natural products, it’s best to take a pragmatic approach. Not all “organic” active ingredients are created equal, and as Dr. Lupu points out, “just because something is organic, natural, or homemade doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better for your skin.” Formulation expertise matters just as much as the quality of the ingredients.

Among the ingredients suitable for skin undergoing significant changes:

• Sea buckthorn: rich in omega-7 fatty acids (which help regulate sebum production), vitamin C (15 times more than an orange), and antioxidant flavonoids. The natural juice from its berries has antibacterial properties thanks to malic acid, while its oil nourishes without leaving a greasy residue. A study by Vernet (Phytothérapie, 2006) confirms the benefits of sea buckthorn oil for skin protection and regeneration.
• Zinc: known for absorbing excess sebum and mattifying the T-zone. An effective complementary ingredient.
• Aloe vera: soothing and moisturizing, useful as a complement to a sebum-regulating ingredient.

On the other hand, active ingredients such as retinol, strong chemical peels, or concentrated glycolic acids should be reserved for adults. On skin that is still developing, they can compromise the skin barrier and cause redness or acne breakouts, as Dr. Asha Shah, Director of Medical Science at Kenvue, explains.

Endocrine disruptors in cosmetics: what to look for

When choosing skincare products for teenagers, it’s important to take a close look at the ingredients. Endocrine disruptors are substances that interfere with the hormonal system—which is undergoing significant changes at this age. Certain preservatives (parabens), chemical UV filters, and synthetic fragrances are among the ingredients that require the most scrutiny.

How can you identify the safest formulations? Check reviews on apps like YUKA. Look for short INCI lists with ingredients you can recognize. Choose cosmetics formulated without essential oils (which can potentially irritate developing skin), without endocrine disruptors, and containing at least 96% natural ingredients.

La Maison de l’Argousier formulates all of its products according to these strict criteria: no endocrine disruptors, no essential oils, and clinical tests conducted under dermatological supervision and certified by an accredited body. All are rated “Excellent” on YUKA.

Skincare routine for teens: simple and effective

Dermatologists all agree: less is more. A two-step routine—morning and night—is more than enough. Forget those seven-step regimens inspired by adult K-beauty.

At the end of the day: cleanse and soothe

The end of the day is the most important time. Throughout the day, the face accumulates oil, sweat, pollution, and possibly makeup. A gentle cleanse using a product with a pH close to 5.5 is enough to remove these impurities without irritating the skin. A soap-free foam or gel will do the trick.

After this step, a spritzof Secret d’Éclat Purifying Toner can work wonders: rich in vitamin C and malic acid, this antibacterial toner soothes acne-prone skin, reduces inflammation, and prepares the face for the next product. Just spritz it on, let it absorb—that’s it.

Morning and evening: moisturize and balance

Moisturizing isn’t optional, even for oily skin. The Hydra Protect moisturizing cream, formulated with native water and sea buckthorn oil, regulates sebum production in two ways: it curbs excess oil production in oily skin and compensates for dryness in dry skin. With antioxidant properties, it also protects the skin from external aggressors (pollution, UV rays). Apply a small amount in the morning and again at the end of the day after cleansing.

Once or twice a week: a purifying mask

For skin with more noticeable blemishes, applying a white clay mask once a week helps gently purify and detoxify the skin. Leave it on for five minutes after cleansing and drying your face, then rinse off with lukewarm water. That’s all there is to it.

Diet and Teenage Skin: Is There a Connection?

This question comes up time and again, and the answer is nuanced. Several observational studies suggest a link between high consumption of dairy products and simple sugars and the severity of acne in 12- to 18-year-olds. However, the underlying mechanisms remain a subject of debate, and there is no medical consensus recommending a specific diet for treating acne.

What we know for sure: a diet rich in antioxidants (fruits, colorful vegetables, berries) supports the skin’s natural defenses against oxidative stress. Sea buckthorn, with its beta-carotene (10 times more than a carrot) and exceptional vitamin C content, perfectly illustrates this potential. But no food can replace a proper skincare routine or a dermatological consultation in cases of moderate to severe acne.

Don't make your teenager feel guilty about what they eat. Moderation and variety are still the best approach.

The skin microbiome: why it’s important to protect it

Your teenager’s skin is home to billions of microorganisms that make up their skin microbiome. This ecosystem plays a vital protective role: it regulates inflammation, helps defend against acne-causing bacteria, and keeps the skin barrier healthy.

Problem: Harsh cleansers, frequent use of antiseptic products, and overly stripping cosmetics destroy this microbiome. Deprived of its natural defenses, the skin becomes more vulnerable to breakouts and irritation. That’s why dermatologists recommend washing only once a day (preferably at the end of the day) and using products that respect the skin’s pH balance.

Native sea buckthorn water, with its targeted antibacterial properties thanks to malic acid, helps purify the skin without destroying the entire microbiome. It’s a smarter approach than simply “disinfecting everything.”

When to see a dermatologist

A natural, well-thought-out skincare routine is ideal for mild acne: a few pimples, blackheads in the T-zone, and shine. This is the case for most teenagers.

However, if the acne is widespread, inflammatory (red, painful, deep pimples), leaves scars, or significantly affects your self-esteem, it is essential to see a dermatologist. Certain medical treatments (low-dose benzoyl peroxide, prescription retinoids) may be necessary, and the doctor will tailor the treatment plan to your skin type and the severity of your acne.

Natural products and dermatological treatments aren’t mutually exclusive. They complement each other. Talk to your doctor about it!

Sea buckthorn: a little-known sebum-regulating ingredient for skin undergoing significant changes

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a shrub whose small orange berries contain a remarkable concentration of active compounds. According to a study by Menvielle-Bourg (Phytothérapie, 2009), sea buckthorn oil extract—rich in carotenoids, tocopherols, phytosterols, and omega-7 fatty acids—strengthens epithelial tissues and boosts their defensive capabilities. The study also reports an improvement in skin hydration, appearance, and elasticity.

For teenage skin, the key benefit lies in omega-7 fatty acids. Only four fruits in the world contain significant amounts of these fatty acids, and sea buckthorn has a concentration at least 20 times higher than the others. These fatty acids help regulate sebum production, making them an effective ingredient for oily or combination skin prone to breakouts.

La Maison de l’Argousier, a French family-owned business with 26 hectares of certified organic farmland, harnesses the synergy between native water and sea buckthorn berry oil in its formulations. Le Secret d’Éclat (native water spray) and Hydra Protect cream form a duo particularly suited to the needs of teenage skin: purifying, balancing, and hydrating, without any unnecessary ingredients.

Summary: Essential Skincare Tips for Your Teenager

Caring for a teenager’s skin means, above all, respecting its natural balance. Here are the key points to remember:

• A gentle wash at the end of the day, using a product with a suitable pH level (around 5.5)
• A natural antibacterial spray (such as sea buckthorn water) to soothe blemishes
• A sebum-regulating cream for use in the morning and at night, even on oily skin
• No exfoliants, no retinol, no concentrated acids on developing skin
• See a dermatologist if your acne is more than mild

Your teenager doesn’t need ten products on the bathroom shelf. Two or three well-chosen, natural products that are gentle on the skin’s microbiome and suited to their skin type are more than enough. And if you want to take it a step further, sea buckthorn-based product lines offer a sebum-regulating and soothing approach that’s definitely worth checking out.

The information provided is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult your doctor or pharmacist.

FAQ

How can you have clear skin as a teenager?

The key to beautiful skin lies in simplicity: a gentle cleanse at the end of the day to remove impurities and excess oil, followed by a sebum-regulating cream in the morning and at night. Avoid touching your face and picking at pimples, as this worsens inflammation. Choose natural products formulated for skin undergoing changes, free of endocrine disruptors. Sea buckthorn, thanks to its sebum-regulating omega-7 fatty acids and vitamin C, is a particularly effective ally for skin prone to breakouts.

What do dermatologists recommend for teenagers' skin?

Dermatologists, such as Dr. Lupu (Gustave Roussy Institute) and Dr. Asha Shah (Kenvue), recommend a minimalist routine: a gentle cleanser, a non-comedogenic moisturizer, and sunscreen. Washing once a day is sufficient in most cases. Active ingredients such as retinol or concentrated acid peels are not recommended for teenage skin. In cases of moderate to severe acne, a dermatology consultation is essential to determine the appropriate treatment.

How can you clean a teenager’s skin without irritating it?

Use a cleanser with a pH close to 5.5 (the skin’s natural pH), such as a gentle gel or soap-free foam. A single wash at the end of the day is enough to remove pollution, excess sebum, and impurities. Pat dry with a clean towel without rubbing. Finish with a spritz of sea buckthorn water (such as Secret d’Éclat) to naturally soothe and purify the skin before applying your cream.

What is the ideal routine for a teenager?

Two steps, one in the morning and one at the end of the day, are all you need. At the end of the day: gently wash your face + apply a soothing antibacterial spray + use a sebum-regulating cream. In the morning: apply a light cream (and sunscreen if you’ll be out in the sun). Once or twice a week, a white clay mask gently purifies the skin. That’s all you need. Choose natural products, free of endocrine disruptors, formulated to respect a teenager’s still-fragile skin barrier.

Sources and references

• Vernet, A., “Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.),” Phytothérapie, vol. 4, pp. 125–129, 2006. Link to the study
• Menvielle-Bourg, F.J., “Supercritical CO₂ Oil Extract from Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) Berries and Seeds and Its Effects on the Skin and Mucous Membranes,” Phytothérapie, vol. 7, pp. 3–7, 2009. Link to the study
• Dr. Jérômy Lupu, dermatologist at the Gustave Roussy Institute, quoted in Parents.fr, March 2023. Link to the article

{"@context":"https://schema.org","@type":"FAQPage","mainEntity":[{"@type":"Question","name":"Comment avoir une belle peau quand on est adolescent ?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"La clé d'une belle peau repose sur la simplicité : un lavage doux en fin de journée pour éliminer impuretés et surplus de sébum, suivi d'une crème séborégulatrice matin et fin de journée. Évitez de toucher votre visage et de manipuler vos boutons. Choisissez des produits naturels adaptés aux peaux en pleine transformation, sans perturbateurs endocriniens. L'argousier, grâce à ses omégas 7 séborégulateurs et à sa vitamine C, est un allié particulièrement adapté pour accompagner les peaux à imperfections."}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Que recommandent les dermatologues pour la peau des adolescents ?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Les dermatologues recommandent une routine minimaliste : nettoyant doux, crème non comédogène, et protection solaire. Le lavage une fois par jour suffit dans la plupart des cas. Les actifs comme le rétinol ou les peelings acides concentrés sont déconseillés sur les peaux d'adolescents. En cas d'acné modérée à sévère, une consultation dermatologique est indispensable."}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Comment nettoyer la peau d'un adolescent sans l'agresser ?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Utilisez un nettoyant au pH proche de 5,5 (le pH naturel de la peau), type gel doux ou mousse sans savon. Un seul lavage en fin de journée suffit. Séchez en tamponnant avec une serviette propre, sans frotter. Complétez avec un spray d'eau native d'argousier pour apaiser et assainir naturellement, avant d'appliquer votre crème."}},{"@type":"Question","name":"Quelle est la routine idéale pour un adolescent ?","acceptedAnswer":{"@type":"Answer","text":"Deux étapes, matin et fin de journée, suffisent. En fin de journée : lavage doux du visage + spray apaisant antibactérien + crème séborégulatrice. Le matin : crème légère et protection solaire si exposition. Une à deux fois par semaine, un masque à l'argile blanche purifie en douceur. Choisissez des produits naturels, sans perturbateurs endocriniens, formulés pour respecter la barrière cutanée d'un adolescent."}}]}