Acne and Dermatitis

What is the difference between acne and dermatitis, and why is it important to tailor your natural treatment?

Acne and dermatitis are two very distinct skin conditions, even though they sometimes occur together on the same face. Understanding them better is the first step toward managing them effectively.

Acne is a skin condition caused by excess sebum. The sebaceous glands go into overdrive, pores become clogged, and the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes thrives in this oily environment. The result: blackheads, inflamed pimples, and sometimes even painful cysts. As Dr. Sandra Ly, a dermatologist and member of the French Society of Dermatology, summarizes: “Acne refers to inflammatory or retention lesions of the pilosebaceous follicle associated with hyperseborrhea.”

Atopic dermatitis (or atopic eczema), on the other hand, is not caused by sebum but by a compromised skin barrier. Atopic skin allows allergens and irritants to pass through, triggering an excessive immune response: redness, itching, and dry patches. Seborrheic dermatitis, on the other hand, combines elements of both, with oily scales appearing on the scalp, the sides of the nose, or the forehead.

Why does this distinction matter for your skincare routine? Because a treatment that’s too drying will aggravate eczema, while a product that’s too rich will clog the pores of acne-prone skin. Dr. Catherine Gaucher, a dermatologist, also points out that “omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids have anti-inflammatory properties but also play a role in hormone regulation, which is particularly beneficial for adult women.” In other words, the choice of active ingredients must be precise.

What do acne and dermatitis have in common? Inflammation. And this is precisely where certain natural active ingredients shine: the omega-7 fatty acids in sea buckthorn possess both powerful anti-inflammatory properties and sebum-regulating capabilities, as palmitoleic acid is the natural substance most similar to human sebum. Rather than drying out or greasing the skin, it restores balance.

What natural ingredients are both anti-acne and anti-inflammatory for skin prone to dermatitis?

Finding an ingredient that soothes inflammation without clogging pores or stripping the skin: that’s the holy grail for anyone dealing with breakouts and red patches. Several natural ingredients fit the bill.

The malic acid found in sea buckthorn, which occurs naturally in the berry’s juice, helps eliminate acne-causing bacteria, reduces skin inflammation, and improves the appearance of blemished or thickened skin. It is a gentle exfoliant that cleanses pores without irritating them, making it suitable even for atopic skin prone to breakouts.

Tea tree oil is often praised for its antibacterial properties. When applied as a single drop diluted in a carrier oil, it can help dry out an isolated pimple. However, please note: it is not recommended for pregnant women and may cause contact dermatitis in those with sensitive skin. Use sparingly.

Aloe vera gel, which is non-greasy and non-comedogenic, soothes redness and promotes healing. It can be incorporated into a skincare routine for acne-prone skin, but its benefits are limited in terms of nourishment and sebum regulation.

Green clay absorbs impurities and regulates excess oil, but Dr. Gaucher warns that if you dry out the skin too much, it will produce more oil as a defense mechanism. A weekly mask is sufficient; be sure to rinse it off before it dries completely.

What sets sea buckthorn apart on this list is its versatility. Its omega-7 fatty acids help regulate sebum production in both directions: they compensate for the lack of sebum in dry, atopic skin and help control excess sebum in acne-prone skin. The bioflavonoids present in the berry reinforce this action by trapping free radicals and limiting inflammatory reactions. These properties are confirmed by the work of Kallio, Yang, and Peippo (J Agric Food Chem, 2002) on the high levels of vitamin C, tocopherols, and tocotrienols in sea buckthorn berries.

How can you adjust your daily routine to help soothe acne and eczema on your face?

You’ve identified your skin concern. Now comes the practical question: what should you put on your face, in what order, and—most importantly—what should you avoid doing? Here’s a simple, natural routine.

Gently cleanse your skin morning and night. Use a moisturizing soap or a pH-balanced cleanser that’s free of harsh sulfates. It’s understandable to want to “strip” oily skin, but that’s the best way to trigger more sebum production. Stripped skin reacts by producing even more oil.

Apply a rebalancing toner. Maison de l’Argousier’s Secret d’Éclat toner, formulated with organic sea buckthorn berry water, is rich in antibacterial malic acid and antioxidant vitamin C. In dermatologically supervised clinical tests (a 21-day protocol involving 22 volunteers), 100% of participants noticed smoother, soothed, and purified skin. Two to three sprays on the face, morning and night, are enough to prepare the skin for the next step in your skincare routine. This step also helps rebalance combination to oily skin while soothing dermatitis.

Follow up with a suitable moisturizer. For acne-prone skin, the Hydra Protect cream combines native water and sea buckthorn berry oil to hydrate without leaving a greasy residue. Clinical tests show a significant reduction in shine (+47%) and an improvement in skin softness (+40%). Its formula regulates sebum production: it doesn’t clog pores and helps reduce breakouts.

If your acne is accompanied by early fine lines (late-onset acne—welcome to the club!), Lissant Actif offers a unique solution: a treatment for oily skin that doesn’t leave a greasy film, while smoothing the skin (+14% in 21 days according to clinical tests conducted by Eurofins). Lissant Actif also contains extracts of Acmella oleracea and Sophora japonica, which stimulate the skin’s defenses.

Is adult acne in women caused by hormones? Which natural ingredients address this cause?

After age 25, facial acne often appears mainly on the chin and jawline. This typical pattern suggests a hormonal cause: hypersensitivity to androgens, which stimulate the sebaceous glands. Fluctuations related to the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, or perimenopause exacerbate the condition.

A 2014 Korean study involving 45 people with mild to moderate acne showed that 2 grams of omega-3 or 400 mg of omega-6 per day reduced the number of lesions after ten weeks. Dr. Gaucher confirms that these fatty acids “play a role in regulating hormones.”

Sea buckthorn provides a complete lipid profile: omega-3, 6, 7, and 9. Omega-7, in particular, can deactivate C-reactive protein, which is responsible for inflammation in the body. When applied topically, the combination of native water and sea buckthorn oil used by Maison de l’Argousier replicates the berry’s full spectrum through biomimicry, which strengthens the skin barrier while soothing inflammation. You can complement this treatment with oral sea buckthorn oil. L’Invincible is ideal for this purpose, as it contains 96% organic sea buckthorn oil from our plantation. When taken orally as a three-month course, it can support the action of topical treatments.

Let’s not forget active brewer’s yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae): by restoring balance to the gut microbiota, it supports skin immunity!

What habits worsen acne and eczema without us realizing it?

You might not always realize it, but some well-meaning habits can actually undermine your efforts. Here’s a quick look at some common pitfalls.

Popping pimples. We know it’s a bad idea, but we do it anyway. Every pimple you pop risks causing a secondary infection, spreading germs, and leaving permanent scars. Resist the urge.

Avoid overusing “cleansing” products. Daily scrubs, alcohol-based toners, and clay masks three times a week: your skin interprets this as an attack and produces even more oil. A gentle weekly scrub is enough.

Exposing yourself to the sun in the hope of “drying out” pimples. The improvement is an illusion. The sun thickens the skin, prevents sebum from draining away, and the rebound effect a few weeks later is devastating. Not to mention acne scars, which darken and become more visible.

Neglecting your diet. Numerous studies show that a diet high in refined sugars and dairy products stimulates insulin production and inflammation, which can worsen acne in some people. Focus on fruits, raw vegetables, and protein. The key is moderation.

Using essential oils without taking precautions. Tea tree oil, for example, has photosensitizing properties and can cause contact dermatitis. Just a few drops of essential oil used in the wrong amount can turn a minor blemish into widespread irritation.

What natural treatments are safe to use during pregnancy for acne or dermatitis?

Pregnancy causes hormonal changes, which in turn affect the condition of your skin. From first-trimester acne to flare-ups of atopic eczema, your body is doing its best to cope. The problem is that many conventional treatments are contraindicated (isotretinoin, certain antibiotics, topical retinoids).

Essential oils are also not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding, unless specifically advised by a doctor. This is precisely one of the key choices made by Maison de l’Argousier in its formulations: none of its products contain essential oils or endocrine disruptors.

Secret d’Éclat Skincare Water, made with 96% naturally derived ingredients, is formulated with native sea buckthorn water, marine spring water, and antimicrobial honeysuckle extracts. Its antibacterial and soothing properties make it a natural ally for sensitive skin. The Hydra Protect cream, with 97% naturally derived ingredients, hydrates and balances without causing irritation.

Of course, talk to your doctor or midwife before adding any new products to your routine during pregnancy. We women support each other, but medical advice is still essential.

Acne and dermatitis aren’t inevitable. A two-step routine—starting with an antibacterial toner followed by a sebum-regulating cream—can help restore your skin’s balance without causing irritation. Sea buckthorn, with its omega-7 fatty acids similar to human sebum and its purifying malic acid, offers a natural and gentle solution for skin torn between excess oil and sensitivity. Try it, observe the results, and adjust as needed. Your skin will thank you for it.

The information provided is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult your doctor or pharmacist.

Sources and references

• • Kallio H, Yang B, Peippo P. “Effects of different origins and harvesting times on vitamin C, tocopherols, and tocotrienols in sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) berries.” J Agric Food Chem, 2002; 50: 6136–42.

• • Larmo P, Alin J, Salminen E, et al. “Effects of sea buckthorn berries on infections and inflammation.” Eur J Clin Nutr, 2008; 62: 1123–30.

• • French National Authority for Health. “Acne: When and How to Treat It?”, October 20, 2015.