Moisturizer for dry skin

Tightness, roughness, dullness: your dry skin needs much more than just a light layer of moisturizer. But first, you need to understand what it’s missing really to choose the cream that will make a difference. Good news: there are some remarkable natural ingredients out there, and science has tested them. We break it all down, backed by clinical studies.

Why Your Skin Is Dry: What Your Moisturizer Needs to Address

Dry skin is primarily a matter of genetics. Unlike dehydrated skin (a temporary condition caused by cold weather, stress, or an unsuitable skincare routine), dry skin naturally produces too little sebum. As a result, the hydrolipidic film—that thin protective layer on the skin’s surface—becomes compromised. As summarized by Stéphanie Soulé, PhD in Life Sciences and researcher at Typology: "Due to insufficient sebum production, the hydrolipidic film's barrier function is weakened, making the epidermis more sensitive to external aggressors and facilitating the evaporation of water from the skin." The practical consequences: loss of elasticity, redness, and premature cellular aging. And in winter, the wind and cold make these issues even worse. Your cream must therefore restore this compromised skin barrier—not just “moisturize” the surface.

Emollient, humectant, occlusive: three key roles to understand when choosing your cream

These three terms often appear on product labels. They refer to three complementary mechanisms that a good moisturizer for dry skin should combine:

• The humectant (glycerin, amino acids) attracts moisture and locks it into the epidermis. It acts like a microscopic sponge.
• Emollients (squalane, plant-based oils, omega fatty acids) nourish the skin by replenishing missing lipids. They soften the skin and fill the spaces between cells.
• Occlusive ingredients (natural waxes, plant-based film-forming agents) form a protective film on the skin’s surface to limit evaporation. Be careful, however, with synthetic occlusive ingredients such as paraffin or silicones, which can suffocate the skin over time and disrupt its natural balance.

A cream that contains only a humectant will provide immediate comfort, but the effect will wear off quickly. For dry skin, it’s the combination of all three that makes the difference.

What natural ingredients are best for nourishing dry skin? What the studies say

If you're torn between a nourishing cream and a moisturizer, it might be because your skin isn't dry but dehydrated. These two conditions require different active ingredients. To help you decide, check out our comparison of the best facial moisturizers, which details the formulas suited to each need.

Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and argan oil are classics, and for good reason: their fatty acids help restore the skin’s hydrolipidic film. Ceramides, whether natural or biomimetic, strengthen the skin’s intercellular matrix. Hyaluronic acid, meanwhile, retains up to 1,000 times its weight in H₂O molecules. But at concentrations above 2% in a formulation, plant-based glycerin can paradoxically dry out the skin by drawing moisture from the deeper layers to the surface. A lesser-known active ingredient, however, deserves your attention: omega-7, or palmitoleic acid. Only four fruits in the world contain it in significant quantities, and sea buckthorn has a concentration at least 20 times higher than the others. This fatty acid is naturally present in our skin: it is a component of human sebum. It therefore helps to replenish the hydrolipidic film in a biomimetic manner. Thomas Michel, in his thesis defended at the University of Orléans in 2011, demonstrated the “Antioxidant and antimicrobial potential of various parts of the sea buckthorn”, which is linked to the presence of flavonoids and proanthocyanidins. These properties are particularly beneficial for dry skin, which is often more vulnerable to external aggressors.

Sea buckthorn: why this ingredient is perfect for dry skin

This small, thorny shrub native to Eurasia is a fascinating powerhouse of nutrients. Its berries contain:

• Omega-7 fatty acids: These sebum-regulating fatty acids strengthen the skin’s hydrolipidic film
• Omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids: with anti-inflammatory properties, they soothe dry and irritated areas
• Vitamin E: 4 times more than sunflowers, a leading antioxidant
• Beta-carotene: 10 times more than a carrot, a precursor to vitamin A that supports cell renewal
• Vitamin C: 9 times more than an orange, found in the berry's natural juice

Sea buckthorn lipid extract is also characterized by its very rapid absorption. The palmitic acid it contains is so similar to the skin’s natural lipids that it penetrates almost instantly, without leaving a greasy film. This is a godsend for those who dread the “shiny face” effect of rich products.

Secret Sublimant Dry Oil paired with Nutri Actif Cream: two clinically tested sea buckthorn skincare products

Whether used on its own or mixed with your moisturizer,sea buckthorn oil nourishes dry skin by delivering concentrated omega-7, 6, and 9 fatty acids in a form that the skin can easily absorb. Just a few drops applied to the face and neck are enough to restore skin comfort. The carotenoids it contains also give the skin a healthy glow that’s visible from the very first application.

At Maison de l’Argousier, a French family-owned business that owns 26 hectares of sea buckthorn groves certified organic, two products are particularly well-suited to the needs of dry skin. The Sublimating Secret is a concentrated dry formula containing 50% sea buckthorn and squalane (an emollient naturally found in the skin). Clinical tests conducted by Eurofins on a panel of 20 people over a 14-day period demonstrated a a statistically significant increase in skin hydration, softness, suppleness, and nourishment for the face and body. And 65% of participants had sensitive or irritated skin. Use it under your moisturizer in the morning or as a hair mask: this product is remarkably versatile. Nutri Active is a moisturizing and nourishing cream for dry skin. It contains both native sea buckthorn berry water (rich in vitamin C and polyphenols) and lipid concentrate from the berry. This combination recreates the fruit’s natural balance. It regulates sebum production in both directions: it nourishes dry areas without making combination areas greasy. Formulated in France, it is rated "Excellent" on Yuka, free from endocrine disruptors and essential oils. Both products have a natural orange tint due to beta-carotene. If this color surprises you, it is precisely a sign that the active ingredients have not been denatured.

Skincare Routine for Dry Skin: Morning Routine and Mistakes to Avoid

An effective routine for dry skin isn't just about piling on products. Here's a simple three-step routine:

• In the morning: Apply a few drops of a plant-based oil containing Omega-7 (such as Secret Sublimant), your Nutri Actif nourishing and moisturizing face cream, and then your sunscreen. Allow at least 10 minutes for the product to absorb before applying the SPF.
• At the end of the day: a gentle cleanser (never regular soap), a more generous amount of your dry oil than in the morning, followed by your Nutri Actif nourishing cream.
• Twice a week: a very gentle exfoliator to remove dead skin cells that prevent the absorption of active ingredients.

A common mistake: applying too many layers of lightweight products (the so-called “layering”) instead of using a rich moisturizer. For dry skin, a well-formulated nourishing product is better than five watery serums layered on top of each other.

How to Read an INCI List: Spot Greenwashing in 30 Seconds

These three steps provide a solid foundation, but every type of dry skin has its own unique characteristics. To take your skincare routine to the next level, check out our comprehensive routine for dry to very dry skin, which details the morning and evening regimens, including the right techniques, the best textures to choose, and layering mistakes to avoid depending on the season.

Dry skin isn’t limited to the face. The arms, legs, and elbows suffer from the same lack of lipids, often to an even greater extent. For these areas of the body, a moisturizing body oil rich in omegas is the perfect complement to your facial routine. Apply it to slightly damp skin after showering: it will absorb more quickly and keep your skin feeling comfortable all day long.

Want to make sure a cream for dry skin lives up to its promises? Check the first five ingredients on the INCI list: they make up the majority of the formula. If “Aqua” is immediately followed by silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone) or paraffinum liquidum, it’s a synthetic occlusive disguised as a skincare product. Opt for formulas where plant-based oils or squalane appear in the top three ingredients. A short ingredient list (fewer than 15 ingredients) is often a sign of transparency.

Pregnancy, Breastfeeding, and Dry Skin: Which Ingredients Should You Avoid?

During pregnancy and breastfeeding, certain ingredients should be avoided in your skincare products: retinol (high-dose synthetic vitamin A), essential oils, and certain endocrine disruptors such as parabens or phenoxyethanol. Always check with your doctor or pharmacist. Pure plant-based oils, plant-derived squalane, and glycerin are generally considered safe. Sea buckthorn extract, which is 100% plant-based and naturally rich in omega fatty acids and vitamin E, is a promising option. Creams formulated with natural ingredients and free of essential oils significantly reduce potential risks.

FAQ

What is the best cream for dry skin?

The ideal cream for dry skin combines three types of active ingredients: an emollient (plant-based oil, squalane) to nourish, a humectant (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) to lock in moisture, and a natural occlusive to prevent moisture loss. Sea buckthorn’s omega-7, which is similar to the skin’s natural lipids, is a key ingredient for restoring the hydrolipidic film without leaving a greasy residue.

Dry skin or dehydrated skin: how can you tell the difference?

Dry skin is a genetically determined skin type: it consistently produces too little sebum. Dehydrated skin is a temporary condition caused by cold weather, stress, or improper skincare. Oily skin can be dehydrated. Dry skin, on the other hand, is almost always dehydrated as well. The test: if your skin feels tight after cleansing even in the summer, it is probably dry. If the tightness only occurs in the winter or at certain times, it is dehydration.

What is the best product for very dry skin?

For very dry skin, a rich treatment applied at the end of the day is more effective than several layers of lightweight products. Sea buckthorn lipid concentrate, used under night cream or as a mask, provides intense nourishment thanks to its omega-7, 6, and 9 fatty acids. Clinical tests of Maison de l’Argousier’s Secret Sublimant show a significant increase in hydration and nourishment after just 14 days of daily use, even in people with sensitive skin. The information provided is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult your doctor or pharmacist.

Sources and references

• Thomas Michel, “New Methods for Extraction, Fractionation, and Identification: Application to Bioactive Compounds from Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides),” Ph.D. thesis, University of Orléans, ICOA, 2011. Link
• Eurofins Clinical Trials (STUVY22AA0553-1): Secret Sublimant, a 14-day study involving 20 volunteers, with clinical scoring conducted under dermatological supervision.
• Eurofins Clinical Trials (STUVY23AA0274-1): Nutri-Actif, a 21-day protocol involving 22 volunteers, with clinical scoring under dermatological supervision.